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Europe 2017


Previous
Thursday August 3, 2017
Zermatt to Saas Fee

Friday August 4, 2017
Allalinhorn

Next
Saturday August 5, 2017
Saas Fee to Andermatt




2017-08-04 06:34
Kent's pic

Allalinhorn 4027m / 13,212' is on the left
Alphubel 4206m 13,799' is in the middle
Täschhorn 4491m / 14,733', Dom,4545m / 14,911', and Lenzspitze 4294m / 14,088' are on the right
From here Dom appears as two peaks close together, the real peak is on the left.


2017-08-04 06:34
Kent's pic

We woke up early, packed, checked out, left our backpacks downstairs at the front desk, hiked over to the lift, and started up.



my pic from the lift
It turned out that with our half fare cards, the ride up Metro Alpin was less than the discount from the Saas Fee hotels - 44 chf.


2017-08-04 07:35

my pic from the lift

Alphubel 4206m 13,799' is on the left
Täschhorn 4491m / 14,733' is right center
Dom,4545m / 14,911' the second highest point in Switzerland and the highest point entirely in Switzerland, is in the clouds
Lenzspitze 4294m / 14,088' is on the right
Nadelhorn 4327m / 14,196', which Kent climbed on a week prior on Friday July 28, is behind Lenzspitzse




2017-08-04 07:51
Kent's pic

The tunnel between the Felskinn gondola 2980m / 9,777' and the Metro Alpin underground funicular.
Metro Alpin is the world's highest funicular, and also the world's highest subway.
The railway is 1749m / 5,738' long and 476m / 1,562' high


Kent's video





Kent's pic

I knew there would be ski lockers at the top to store extra crap.


2017-08-04 08:20
Kent's pic

We're departing Mittelallalin, 3456m / 11,339'
Allalinhorn is center


2017-08-04 08:30
Kent's pic



2017-08-04 08:36
Kent's pic


2017-08-04 08:36
Kent's pic


2017-08-04 08:46
Kent's pic


2017-08-04 08:47
Kent's pic


my pic
PANO - scroll right
Allalinhorn 4027m / 13,212' on the left
Feejoch col 3826m / 12,552'
Feechopf 3888m  / 12,756 is the next rocky peak to the right
Alphubel 4206m 13,799' is the large wide glaciated mountain in the center
Täschhorn 4491m / 14,733', Dom,4545m / 14,911', and Lenzspitze 4294m / 14,088' are the next three high peaks
Nadelhorn 4327m / 14,196', which Kent climbed on a week ago on Friday July 28, is behind Lenzspitzse
Mittelallalin 3456m / 11,339' is on the far right







my pic
Now we're leaving the ski area and starting the trail


2017-08-04 08:57

my pic

Kent is the lone climber a ways ahead


2017-08-04 08:57

my pic

Kent's several minutes ahead of me


2017-08-04 09:03
Kent's pic


2017-08-04 09:03
Kent's pic


2017-08-04 09:07
Kent's pic

Hmmm.... a ladder!


2017-08-04 09:08
Kent's pic

a very large ladder!


2017-08-04 09:09
Kent's pic


2017-08-04 09:09
Kent's pic

I'm ahead of the people below on the trail, I'm pretty much directly below Kent now


2017-08-04 09:11
Kent's pic


Kent's pic


2017-08-04 09:15
my pic

I'm approaching the ladder
Kent is past the ladder at the top of center of the picture with his arms wide




2017-08-04 09:15

Kent zoomed in


I hate ladders..
However as I quickly approach the ladder I decide this ladder is quite doable and I will have no problems with it.
My only concern is what to do with my hiking poles.
I watch someone in front of me collapse their poles and hold onto them on the way up the ladder, I immediately decide to do the same.
It takes me a minute or two to collapse my poles, and a Swiss guide and his party of 2 catch up to me at the base of the ladder.
He starts whistling, implying that he doesn't have all day to wait for me, after less than a minute.
I finish up and start climbing the huge 4x4 rungs, throwing both arms over the rungs.
The rungs are easy to climb with crampons.
I struggle a bit up the ladder but make it up with no issues.
Meanwhile the Swiss guide passes me on the right and belays his party up the ladder.
At the top as I'm getting off the ladder - a bit of a tricky exposed move - he starts chastizing me
"Do you know there are crevasses up here?
Why are you up here without a rope?
You wouldn't believe the things I've seen. 
Do you expect someone to rescue you? 
Oh I supposed I'd at least phone the rescue services for you."
I immediately reply "Thanks, I'd appreciate that, that would be really nice of you"
He was a total and complete ass, he was trying to impress his clients that this was really dangerous and they were right to pay him to drag them up this climb instead of trying it themselves.
Kent and I weren't the only one up here alone without a rope, I saw at least a few others without really searching them out, and honestly being roped up is no real gaurantee of anything, sometimes entire roped parties die when one pulls the rest off the mountain.
Kent says all Swiss guides are like this, so it didn't shock me too much when I heard this crap.
I didn't let it get to me, but the more I thought about it the more I realized what an ass he was for trying to make me feel insecure and raise doubts when I'm putting my butt on the line.


Kent's video



2017-08-04 09:42
Kent's pic
The trail quickly turns to a narrow slanted ice ledge - the ice is darker and dirtier in the top of the picture above

Kent continues on ahead. 
It is quite steep. 
He gets to Feejoch col 3826m / 12,552'
I keep looking up for Kent but I don't see him.
I'm behind the ass/guide who just gave me crap and his party of two patrons.
I am in decent shape and I can keep up with them, they aren't very fast...
We quickly come up to a party of four, they aren't moving very fast at all.
After a few minutes the ass/guide takes his party off the trail to the left and starts hiking past the four.
I don't leave the safety of the trail, I fall in behind the four.
It feels safer to climb with others, but I quickly realize if anything happens to anyone above me, the first thing that happens is they will take me out...
I don't get too close to them, but I'm directly below them.

Kent continues past Feejoch, above.



2017-08-04 09:45
Kent's pic

Kent stops after the ice, turns around, and takes a picture of me and the party of four ahead of me.


2017-08-04 09:45
Kent's pic of the Matterhorn and me approaching Feejoch col 3826m / 12,552'
Feechopf 3888m  / 12,756' is on the right


2017-08-04 09:48
Kent's pic


2017-08-04 09:48
Kent's pic

Monte Rosa is hidden on the extreme left behind Rimpfischhorn 4199m / 13,776', the very prominant peak
Lyskamm 4527m / 14,852' is the long glaciated peak
Castor 4226m / 13,864' is next, then Pollux 4092m / 13,425', then Breithorn 4164m / 13,661', then Matterhorn 4478m / 14,692'


2017-08-04 09:48
Kent's pic



My pic of the Breithorn and the Matterhorn from Feejoch col 3826m / 12,552'!
The view was amazing.... everyone seemed to take a break here, I did as well.
I didn't want to stop too long and lose momentum, but I needed a quite break.

You can see two people on the ridge on the far right on their way over to Alphubel, another relatively easy climb (though Alphubel is much, much harder than Allalinhorn)



My pic - the way ahead



My pic - the way back down the trail
Notice the clouds gathering quickly on the peaks, when we started there was a wisp of a cloud on Dom.



my pic

Feechopf 3888m  / 12,756, Alphubel 4206m 13,799', and peaks in the clouds




Feejoch col 3826m / 12,552'
Feechopf 3888m  / 12,756 is the next rocky peak to the right
Alphubel 4206m 13,799' is on the far right



PANO from Feejoch col 3826m / 12,552'

Monte Rosa is hidden on the  left behind Rimpfischhorn 4199m / 13,776', the very prominant peak on the left
Lyskamm 4527m / 14,852' is the long glaciated peak
Pollux 4092m / 13,425 is next, then Castor 4226m / 13,864', then Breithorn 4164m / 13,661, then Matterhorn 4478m / 14,692'
Feechopf 3888m  / 12,756 is the nearby rocky peak in the center
Alphubel 4206m 13,799' is on the right, followed by Dom and other peaks that are now in the clouds.
The trail back down is on the right.

I got a drink, appreciated the view, then looked up at the trail ahead.
It did not look pretty, but I didn't realize it was solid ice until I was on it.
My hiking poles could not penetrate the ice at all - I had nothing solid to balance on!
I wasn't gripping anything but ice.
My crampons were holding, but I was not at all happy with the situation.
Kent's discussion of the differences between my crampons and better crampons with sharper longer points immediately came to mind..
I kept walking very slowly ahead.
The farther I went the more I realized I was not happy, and I was never going to enjoy a second of the trail ahead because I didn't want to come back down this.
After a good 20' or 30' of ice I decided I wasn't going any further, I was done, I was turning around now.
However turning around here was a dangerous proposition.
I didn't want to turn around here, but I didn't want to continue ahead either.
A misstep would be the last mistake I ever make.
I very slowly pulled my right foot back and placed it across the trail so my shoes were at 90 degree angles... on ice in crampons on a narrow trail...
I successfully surpressed a panic attack.
My foot held and my mind held.
I pulled my left foot even with my right foot.
So far so good, I'm halfway turned around.
I slowly repeated the manuver to get fully turned around.
Now I headed down.
I'm very high up on this thing, but I've got a long way down to go before I'm done.
Every step down was one step closer to the lift.
I knew I'd feel much better once I was below the ladder, but even then there was quite a ways to go.


2017-08-04 09:59
Kent's pic

Meanwhile Kent was continuing up - this is his pic of the trail back down


2017-08-04 10:06
Kent's pic of the summit of Allalinhorn


2017-08-04 10:06
Kent's pic - the trail up to the summit of Allalinhorn


2017-08-04 10:11
Kent's pic

Kent's pic - the ridge of Allalinhorn


2017-08-04 10:11
Kent's pic - the summit of Allalinhorn


2017-08-04 10:11
Kent's pic


Kent's summit video

There was a line of people waiting to take their turn on the very summit at the cross.
As Kent waited in line a guided group came up behind him.
When it was Kent's turn, the Swiss guide started to cut in line and guide his party up.
Kent told the guy he'd been waiting and it was his turn.
The Swiss guide turned on Kent, telling him he should be roped up, giving him the same kind of nonsense that the other guide had given me.
Kent asked him 'what gives you the right to cut in line'
The ass guide muttered some crap about it being his country under his breath.
What a jerk.
Kent didn't back down and took his rightful turn.


Kent's pic - the Allalinhorn summit cross


2017-08-04 10:20
Kent's pic from the summit of Allalinhorn looking north toward the Saas Valley


2017-08-04 10:20
Kent's pic - Kent on the Allalinhorn summit!


2017-08-04 10:20
Kent's pic
The line to get on the summit of Allalinhorn


2017-08-04 10:37

Kent's pic from Feejoch - he's come down from the summit to Feejoch in only 17 minutes


2017-08-04 10:37
Kent's pic



my pic from below the ladder

One other reason for heading back now was I knew there were alot of people ahead of me on the mountain, and I wanted to get down before they all caught up with me.
Passing someone on this very narrow trail was not easy or fun, but it was relatively safe assuming you pick a decent spot.
Once I got off the trail and waited for someone to pass and they asked if I was alright - I replied 'you'll hear a scream if I'm not'...
(I really was fine)

When I got to the ladder I decided to go down the far side to allow others to pass me easier on the near side.
It didn't matter which side you want up or down, they were the same..

Once I got down below the ladder I took another break and took some pictures.
I was also waiting for a few parties below me to get past me on their way up so I wouldn't have to pass them on the trail down.
These pictures probably do the best job of showing how steep it really was.



PANO - scroll right





PANO - scroll right


2017-08-04 10:45
Kent's pic from above the ladder and below Feejoch


2017-08-04 10:45
Kent's pic - same place as the pic above, but zoomed in


2017-08-04 10:20
Kent's pic


2017-08-04 10:20
Kent's pic


2017-08-04 10:50
Kent's pic


2017-08-04 10:50
Kent's pic


2017-08-04 10:50
Kent's pic


2017-08-04 11:12

Kent caught up to me after I got back on the ski run



my pic


2017-08-04 11:45
Kent's pic of a zipline at Mittelallalin


2017-08-04 11:55
Kent's pic

I opened the locker, changed out of my snow gear, and we both had a beer and a snack on the patio.
Far free being disappointed at not summitting, I was really happy to have done as well as I did.
Seeing the Matterhorn and the rest of the Mattertal valley from Feejoch was fantastic.
This was one of the most amazing things I'd ever done.
The only other day that came close to this was crossing the Grand Desert alone on the Haute Route in 2014 in a near whiteout ...
I had tried Allalinhorn, I turned around.
I didn't need to try it again.

I did 370m / 1,213' vertical from Mittelallalin to Feejoch
Kent did 571m / 1,873' vertical from Mittelallalin to Allalinhorn


2017-08-04 11:55
Kent's pic


Kent's pic


2017-08-04 12:55


2017-08-04 15:01
Kent's pic


2017-08-04 15:04
Kent's pic



We went back to the Hotel Tenne.
They only had one room left, it wasn't cheap but we took it.
It was much nicer and larger than our first room.
We had earned it!
We relaxed the rest of the afternoon, spending much of it on our balcony.







Dusty's video



Kent's video


2017-08-04 18:20

We had dinner at our Hotel Tenne
Kent got the pork cutlette and fries..


2017-08-04 18:20

I got rosti with wild mushrooms!


2017-08-04 19:22


2017-08-04 21:27

This was a neat little addition to our room, embedded in the wall..

Meanwhile in Italy,

Ray went and picked up his motorcycle!




Paul: 'Naples and I are both sweaty bitches'
Their room at the Hotel Rex in Naples was not ready when Paul got there, he headed out for pizza and beer and the 2pm underground tour
He then headed to the one at piazza san gaotano 68
East and a little south of the arch museum
Supposed to be 37m walk from the Hotel Rex

Paul telling Ray how to find the hotel - 'hotel is easy to find, just look for nowhere, and its smack in the middle of it'
Ray: 'my nerves are slightly shot after requisite wrong turns and toll booth mayhem'
The toll booth ate his Ray's toll ticket, then it took him nearly 15 minutes to find someone finally charged him the lost ticket fee of 89 euros.
Paul: 'i am making my way [to the museum] slowly. very slowly'
Ray: 'taxi driver wanted 20 euros' should I walked? maps say 35m... I will walk over
Paul: 'you will be drenched [in sweat] as I was - I am temporarily dry if I don't move!
Paul: 'underground roman / greek tour kicked ass and was freezing cold'
Ray 'hailed another cab after your message - I have been drenched all day' next cap only wanted 7 euro
Paul ' ok meet up at piazza dante - its only a 3 m walk from the museum'
Ray 'need birra desperately'
Paul and Ray got pizza












Previous
Thursday August 3, 2017
Zermatt to Saas Fee

Friday August 4, 2017
Allalinhorn

Next
Saturday August 5, 2017
Saas Fee to Andermatt