Previous
Wednesday July 11 and Thursday July 12, 2018
El Granada to Geneva
Friday July 13, 2018
Geneva to Guillestre, France
Next
Saturday July 14, 2018
la Fête nationale
Col Agnel
I was brave enough to try to rent a car and bike and drive for hours
severely jetlagged on Friday the 13th...
The texts tell the plan for the day pretty well
06:23 Europe time 21:23 California time
Kent: Dusty
Kent: It's 6:22 your time
Kent: Are you having tech difficulties? I'm sure you must
be in your way by now.
06:37 Europe time 21:37 California time
Dusty: Just got on the train to Grenoble, leaves in 15m
Dusty: French border security has tightened just a bit, they made
me show my passport instead of just a train ticket before waving me
through
Dusty: Didn't sleep too well but what else is new
Dusty: Was feeling great at 2am here but fading a little now.
06:41 Europe time 21:41 California time
Kent: Nice! I suggest a sunrise service, and a nap at your stop
Kent: :)
06:47 Europe time 21:47 California time
Dusty: Got 3 hours of driving to do later..
Dusty: Gotta have my A game until Guillestre and then it really starts
Dusty: Tomorrow's goal is Cimme de la Bonette, 2nd highest
paved road in the Alps, the start is about an hour drive from Guillestre
Dusty: I hadn't planned to bag that climb on this trip until
recently when i realized it wasn't that far away
Dusty: Weather forecast is kinda sucky..
Dusty: 4 days of scattered thunderstorms and rain...I'm just planning
to start my rides early and hope for the best..
Dusty: bought cycling rain gear...
07:04 Europe time 22:04 California time
Kent: So, you're saying you can start drinking at 10:30A?
07:21 Europe time 22:21 California time
Dusty: 2 hour train ride to Grenoble, then rent van and bike, then 3+
hours of driving into the Alps..
Dusty: will be sober for a while
07:12 Europe time 22:12 California time
Dusty: I got plenty messed up last night, though it was mostly
exhaustion
07:18 Europe time 22:18 California time
Ray: Heading to Monserrat...
07:18 Europe time 22:18 California time
Ray: Good luck on your bike ride, Dusty!
07:30 Europe time 22:30 California time
Kent: Good luck! That's some drive
Kent: Drink some coffee!
Ray's pic
07:51 Europe time 22:51 California time
Ray: Cigarette machine with climber...
08:39 Europe time 23:39 California time
Ray: In Monistrol, about to hike to monastery
Ray's pic
Ray's pic
Ray's pic
Ray's pic
Ray's pic
10:16 Europe time 01:16 California time
Ray: Neary died a couple of times on way up, even though it was only a
1
hr 15 climb
Ray: Brutal sun and humidity
Ray: Gorgeous monkhouse!
I arrived in Grenoble and took a taxi to the rental car company.
The fine folks at the rental car company also wanted an additional 80
euros to pick up my car at the train station instead of at their office
a few miles away.
This was another change I was forced to make when I rebooked the
car to pick it up a day earlier.
Fortunately they had my car - I picked a 5 seater in hopes I'd be able
to put the bike in the back over the folded down rear seats.
10:06 Europe time 01:06 California time
I rented this carbon frame
Peugeot with a Ultregra transmission for just 20 euros a day from
energybike.fr in Grenoble - half
what I've normally paid per day, and half what the only other bike shop
in Grenoble wanted.
I brought my own seat and pedals, and the bike shop quickly installed
them for me.
I don't ride a road bike at all anymore, I figured I'm not in practice
to clip in - I don't want to
fall over and break a hip or elbow cause I can't unclip (I know
two different people who have broken their elbow and hip cuase they
fell over clipped in)
10:26 Europe time 01:26 California time
10:34 Europe time 01:34 California time
Dusty: Car and bike rented
Dusty: Car is just big enough for the bike!
10:57 Europe time 01:57 California time
Ray: Did you have to take off both wheels
11:26 Europe time 02:26 California time
Dusty: Neither..
Dusty: perfect fit!
11:25 Europe time 02:25 California time
I drove south from Grenoble through Gap, then headed east.
I'd always wanted to see Gap since it is frequently mention in the TDF,
and is also a decent spot for wingsuit base jumping according to the
movie Birdmen.
The scenery was pretty but underwelming.
13:28 Europe time 04:28 California time
Lac Serre-Ponçon
13:57 Europe time 04:57 California time
13:58 Europe time 04:58 California time
14:07 Europe time 05:07 California time
I saw lots of kayakers on the Durance river
14:25 Europe time 05:25 California time
Ray: Back in Barcelona
Ray: Montserrat was amazing
Ray: Froze my ass off getting there, only to bake in heat
It was gorgeous and sunny when I arrived in Guillestre, but the
forecast was mixed for the days ahead.
When I first planned this trip, I planned to bike up Col
d'Izuord.
After I later started to focus on the top ten paved roads in the Alps,
Col
d'Izuord became my third priority in Guillestre, but I still wanted
very much to see it, and get excellent pictures of it.
I was getting really tired now, but against better judgement I drove
past Guillestre and up Col
d'Izuord for pictures.
14:56 Europe time 05:56 California time
Casse Deserte
14:58 Europe time 05:58 California time
PANO from the parking lot for Casse Deserte - scroll right
15:00 Europe time 06:00 California time
15:00 Europe time 06:00 California time
Looking south from Casse Deserte
Casse Deserte
15:18 Europe time 06:18 California time
Casse Deserte
15:30 Europe time 06:30 California time
Col
d'Izuord and Casse Deserte
15:35 Europe time 06:35 California time
15:35 Europe time 06:35 California time
15:47 Europe time 06:47 California time
PANO of Col
d'Izuord looking north - scroll right
15:47 Europe time 06:47 California time
Col
d'Izuord - looking north
15:49 Europe time 06:49 California time
Col
d'Izuord - looking south
15:51 Europe time 06:51 California time
16:03 Europe time 07:03 California time
Paul: Cool Ray! Any other day trips planned? How many days till you
start the cruise?
I sent the guys some pictures and a text
I texted some of the pictures of Col
d'Izuord to the guys, then explained:
Dusty: Spent 3-1/2+ hours driving to Guillestre, then drove up Col
d'Izuord to get pictures
Dusty: I plan to ride it, but it is 3rd on the list (it was first
when i first started planning this trip) and I'm worried i may get
rained out or run out of energy
Dusty: it is another TDF classic [and the 25th highest paved road
in
the Alps, I would later discover]
15:56 Europe time 06:56 California time
Ray: 4 more nights at Praktik Hotel! Can't believe it
Ray: We are doing Stiges on Monday - Sunday is Dali town
Ray: It's been quite a week!
15:58 Europe time 06:58 California time
Paul: So cool
Paul: Dali Museum town (Figures I believe) or Dali House town
(Cadaques)?
15:59 Europe time 06:59 California time
Ray: Hmm
Ray: I'm not sure! Amy made reservations...
16:00 Europe time 07:00 California time
Paul: Gotcha
Paul: Been to the house, it's great
Paul: Heard the museum was great to
Paul: You're good either way
16:05 Europe time 07:05 California time
Paul: Figures (Dali Museum) is directly west of Cadaquez (Dali House),
(24 miles apart) so conceivably you could see both places/towns fairly
easily on one road trip
Paul: Figures is inland, Cadaques is on a peninsula that juts into the
Sea
Kent's text
16:10 Europe time 07:10 California time
Kent: Hanging in my garage
Kent: The hallucinogenic toreador
16:56 Europe time 07:56 California time
Ray: Amy says we're going to Figures.
17:02 Europe time 08:02 California time
Michael: Happy birthday Ray
17:06 Europe time 08:06 California time
Dusty: Happy Birthday Ray! damnit you need to tell us unless you
want us to feel guilty when we forget!
Finally I headed down Col
d'Izuord, nearly falling asleep at the wheel, and checked in to my
hotel.
I was underwelmed - I was paying way more (90 euros a night) than this
room was worth, but it was the only place I could find online in
Guillestre.
I was in Hotel Restaurant Les Barnieres, on the very outskirts of town,
maybe a 5 minute walk from town.
16:52 Europe time 07:52 California time
17:09 Europe time 08:09 California time
View from my room looking northwest - would be a million euro view if
the trees weren't there.
17:09 Europe time 08:09 California time
View from my room looking west back toward Gap
17:09 Europe time 08:09 California time
View from my room looking southwest - Guillestre is south of me down
that road.
Risoul 1850 ski area is up in those mountains.
17:13 Europe time 08:13 California time
Paul: Yikes
Paul: 104 in Figures on Saturday
Paul: Back in Phoenix
17:14 Europe time 08:14 California time
Kent: Beautiful dusty!
Happy b-day Ray!
17:15 Europe time 08:15 California time
Ray: Thanks!
17:25 Europe time 08:25 California time
Dusty: The top of the Col was an amazing 360 view.
Dusty: couple of panos and some Insta360 pics and video...
17:28 Europe time 08:28 California time
Ray: Get any questions about that 360 cam mounted on your head, or were
people too embarrassed...
17:28 Europe time 08:28 California time
Ray: Thanks for b-day wishes! Others coming up soon...
17:30 Europe time 08:30 California time
Dusty: I didn't mount it on my head yet..
Dusty: just held it straight up on a small tripod, works fine
Dusty: Need to get hand and fingers away from it or they take up
half the pic and ruin it...
17:32 Europe time 08:32 California time
Ray: Paul, you're wrong
Ray: It'll only be 103.4
19:00 Europe time 10:00 California time
Walking into Guillestre
19:01 Europe time 10:01 California time
I had researched restaurants in Guillestre on tripadvisor - while there
were easily half a dozen good places, the highest rated was la
Bolee.
It is run by a husband and wife, he cooks, she serves, as does their
teenage daughter.
When I spoke English, he deferred to his wife, who then deferred to her
daughter, who was also anxious about speaking English.
I got the last available table!
They have a 30 euro menu with your choice of beef, fish, or lamb (add 4
euros for a cheese course, 5 euros more for foie gras, 5 euros more for
beef)
I picked lamb the first night, fully intending to try all available
choices during my stay.
19:23 Europe time 10:23 California time
Olive tapanade appetizer... yummy...
19:28 Europe time 10:28 California time
A watermelon based palate cleanser
19:05 Europe time 10:05 California time
Ray: In a shop, Sophie's picking out playing cards, and I hold up a
deck to the counterguy:
Ray: "USA Civil War? Where's the deck for the
Spanish Civil War?"
Guy in serious voice: "We don't do that in this
country."
19:16 Europe time 10:16 California time
Paul: Franco was still ruling when you were born
19:25 Europe time 10:25 California time
Ray: Franco's victims didn't experience a century of slavery before
they were oppressed, either though
Ray: They'll be laughing it off soon.
19:26 Europe time 10:26 California time
Ray: But it's true - many people alive here remember it
Ray: Was reading about Franco's White Terror before I left
19:30 Europe time 10:30 California time
Dusty: I think i hear my foie gras frying
Dusty: At La Bolee
19:36 Europe time 10:36 California time
Dusty: If you think they'll be laughing it off soon, I don't think you
were paying attention! Happy Birthday
19:36 Europe time 10:36 California time
Paul: Chapter 10 of For Whom the Bell Toll
Paul: Fantastic
Paul: I've been to the cliffs in Ronda where the real events that
inspired Hemingway took place
19:38 Europe time 10:38 California time
Paul: [to Ray] Go with the secret meat! It could be squirrel! Mmmmmmm,
delicious
rodent
20:30 Europe time 11:30 California time
Ray: That book is amazing
Ray: I need to reread it
Ray: That scene and on other (no spoilers) I'll never forget
Ray: Apparently inspired by real events.
20:34 Europe time 11:34 California time
Paul: Yes
Paul: Here is the cliff (upper left) where the real events took place
Paul: I got engaged to Lisa in one of the buildings on the upper right
over looking the bridge - the building was an old palace that was
converted to a hotel
20:36 Europe time 11:36 California time
Paul: Ronda, Spain
Paul: Fantastic town - we walked all the way around
Paul: The bridge in the picture is from the 1700s I believe, but around
the side of the town you go over a surviving Roman bridge, and there
are nicely preserved Roman baths there as well
19:37 Europe time 10:37 California time
Foie gras poele sauce vierge fruitee
pave de pommes de terre cuites a la graisse d'oie et jeunes pousses
My foie gras... probably the best thing I have ever eaten in my life.
The flavors gently exploded in my mouth.
19:50 Europe time 10:50 California time
20:06 Europe time 11:06 California time
Lamb roasted for 9 hours with a carmelized crust over garlic sauce with
lentils.
It was simply amazing, clearly one of the very best meals of my life.
20:09 Europe time 11:09 California time
It was a challenge taking a picture inside the restaurant without
either the mother or the daughter in it since there were constantly in
motion.
I figured they might not appreciate me taking a picture of their
daughter...
20:45 Europe time 11:45 California time
Rich chocolate - amazing....
I ate a stunning meal and had a new favorite restaurant...
21:01 Europe time 12:01 California time
21:02 Europe time 12:02 California time
21:09 Europe time 12:09 California time
21:05 Europe time 12:05 California time
Ray: Rondo looks fab! So many great places to see here
Ray: We just spent a while walking around Gothic Quarter
Ray: Not the Spanish Quarter, but cool in its own way
Ray: Medieval euro towns are badass
21:37 Europe time 12:37 California time
Paul: You make it to Parc Guell yet? You can't leave without that
21:40 Europe time 12:40 California time
Ray: Heck, yeah, we did that same day as Sangruda Familia - that was
Gaudi day
Ray: The fam also stopped by the bitchin' apartment building by him
when I was out yesterday.
21:40 Europe time 12:40 California time
Ray: Amy and Sophie refused to tour it once there
Ray: Stairs
Ray: Lots of 'em.
21:40 Europe time 12:40 California time
Ray: What did you think of it?
21:43 Europe time 12:43 California time
Kent: My favorite part of europe is walking around medieval towns after
the tourists leave
Kent: That's why I always harp about Rothenburg in Germany
Kent: What a great trip your having!
21:43 Europe time 12:43 California time
Paul: I really liked Parc Guell
Paul: Just bizarre
Paul: I did not do the apartment though
21:52 Europe time 12:52 California time
Ray: Tivissa was especially cool because there were zero tourists, and
very few residents in general were out
Ray: I drove the moto around until I was scared
Ray: There is too much bike-drop potential in medieval towns, I've
found! I'd often zoom up a steep "alleyway," only to find a dead end
and little room to turn around
Ray: But for a while it was fun as hell
21:54 Europe time 12:54 California time
Kent: Those cobbles or granite roads are so slippery
Kent: I have crashed on my skateboard because of how slick they
are.
22:32 Europe time 13:32 California time
Ray: Oh, btw, I have noticed quite a few people skateboarding on the
Rambla the last few days..
22:39 Europe time 13:39 California time
Kent: Nice
Kent: It's a great way to explore a town or get around on short
commutes
Kent: I'll never travel internationally without it
Kent: It's also more fun than riding a bike
Kent: Imo
Previous
Wednesday July 11 and Thursday July 12, 2018
El Granada to Geneva
Friday July 13, 2018
Geneva to Guillestre, France
Next
Saturday July 14, 2018
la Fête nationale
Col Agnel
