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Italy 2012
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Wednesday June 27, 2012
Vernazza

Thursday June 28, 2012
Vernazza, Florence, and Rome
Next
Friday June 29, 2012
Rome - Pope Benedict, Trevi Fountain, Cappucian Crypt, Spanish Steps, Pantheon

Very early Thursday morning we took the 715am train to Florence, arriving at 10am. 

We'd been to Florence both in 2003 and in 2005 for about 36 hours each time, and we got to see David both times. 
However, in 2005 we didn't get into the Uffizi because I hadn't made reservations, and I desperately wanted to see the Birth of Venus again.

For a mere(?) 50 euros per person, you can buy a Florence pass that lets you skip to the head of any lines and gets you into any museum in Florence.  I was determined to blitz Florence, seeing both the Uffizi and Accadamia / David if possible, hopefully the Medici Chapel as well since it is near the train station.  CJ decided to join me, while Robby, Kathy, and Karin joined Bob in seeing his favorite museum, the Galileo Science Museum.  I went and bought 2 Florence passes, then we all took a taxi to the Uffizi.  We actually wanted the driver to go to the Galileo Museum instead, but they're right next to each other and it is easier to walk then navigate all the one way streets by car to get.



Bob and his favorite museum!



Galileo's Famous Finger

After the Galileo Museum they went to the Acadamia where they were discouraged by the huge lines.  They then decided to have lunch - Robby picked the old Florence favorite, the Hard Rock Cafe.  They then went shopping before heading to the train station.


Karin's pic - gelato!


CJ and I got into the Uffizi in about 10 minutes.  The Birth of Venus is still there and is still magnificant.  No pictures - you're not allowed to photograph the paintings.

venus de medici

Venus de Medici

I honestly wasn't sure whether I was allowed to photograph this or not, and I wasn't sure it what it was when I took the picture.

I didn't take many pictures in the Uffizi.  While the Uffizi has plenty of sculptures, the paintings are the museum's real treasures. Because of this I enjoyed the Uffizi more than CJ did - he prefers sculptures to paintings. I enjoy both, but generally prefer paintings, at least in the Uffizi.

After the Uffizi we got a quick gelato on our way to the Acadamia.  By now it was shortly after noon.  When we got there I was crushed - there were enormous lines down the block.  The mass of people / line at the 'reservations' door was huge, and people around us said the lines hadn't moved at all in about 45 minutes. I figured there was little chance we'd get inside before we had to leave for Rome.  After a short 10 minute wait they allowed a large number of people in through the reservations door, including us. 

The Acadamia is one of the few places in Europe that still seemed to care whether or not you take pictures inside.  You may not take pictures of David - they want you do buy their pictures instead.  While I recognize that a camera's flash damages a painting and never use flash photography in museums, taking an iPhone picture doesn't hurt a marble statue.  I took a few pictures David with my iPhone while CJ stood lookout for me.

Michelangelo's David

Michelangelo's David

CJ and I spent perhaps 20 minutes simply staring at David and deciding which vantage point was the best.
CJ liked this view best, and it is hard to argue that it isn't the best angle.

After leaving the Acadamia we went to the Duomo Museum.  I saw this museum alone in 2005, and thought CJ would enjoy it since it is mostly sculpture.

Michelangelo's Pieta Florence Duomo Museum

Michelangelo's Pieta

Donatello's Mary Magdalene

Donatello's Mary Magdalene
Mary moved since I saw her last in 2005 - she now has her back to the wall.
She was previously in the middle of the room, which made it dificult to take a good picture of her since the background was distracting

Running around Europe you get numb to seeing 'treasures' - there are so many amazing pieces of artwork in churches you simply start tuning them out.  The Pitti Palace is prime example.  I found the Silver Altar pictureworthy

Florence Duomo Museum Silver Altar

Florence Duomo Museum Silver Altar

After the Duomo Museum we went to the Medici Chapels for yet another fix of Michelangelo.  We then bought a few tshirts at the street market right next to the Medici Chapels, then went to the train station.


Karin's pic - waiting for the train to Rome

We caught the 314pm train to Rome, arriving at 4:45pm



Kathy's pic - on the train to Rome


Kathy's pic - on the train to Rome

Upon arrival in Rome I took a taxi to the management company for our apartment.  While I was paying for the rental and getting the keys, someone called the office saying the key to the outside gate for the apartment building had been broken off in the lock, so someone would need to go fix the lock before we could get into the apartment.  I walked back to the train station, gathered the rest of the group, and we took taxis to the apartment.  We had been warned by the management company that the taxis at the train station might try to rip us off and charge 30 euros for the trip which should cost 15 - 17 euros at most.  They were right, the taxis did try to rip us off, asking 30 euros in advance.  With a little persistance and patience we were able to insist on using meters and get an appropriate fare.

Once we arrived at the apartment we had to wait for the property manager to arrive to fix the lock before we could get in the front gate.  Once we got in the front gate we had another problem - our key to the apartment did not work.  Fortunately we already had the property manager (actually the fix-it guy) onsite dealing with the front gate, and they were finally able to get us into the apartment.  While we had to wait perhaps 30 minutes for this episode, it would have taken much longer if the fix-it guy hadn't already been on his way to deal with the front gate.

The apartment at Via della Stelletta, 5, 00186 Roma, Italy was huge, very nicely done, brand new, and fantastic.  I was concerned when I leased it because there was only one or two reviews online for the apartment since it was relatively new.

"Spectacular 3 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms apartment for up to 7 people.
Wide and bright living room with fireplace, air conditioning, plasma color TV, satellite channels, wi-fi Internet connection.
Fully equipped kitchen, 2 bedrooms with double king size beds and 1 bedroom with 2 single beds that can be made up as a double bed, balcony facing an internal courtyard.
The apartment has been completely renovated with high quality materials and furnishings."

we found a supermarket about 200' from the pantheon and have stocked up on american champagne (coke) at supermarket prices.

We're about 5 minutes north of the Pantheon, we're as central as you can get, but there don't appear any buses in this area. 
Freaking scorching hot here, the AC in the apartment is fine.


The rental apartment listing and website for it are both long gone, this picture is from web.archive.org


The rental apartment listing and website for it are both long gone, this picture is from web.archive.org

Dinner was at nearby Osteria de Mario.  This was perhaps the first time we felt we could afford both pasta and secundi, and we enjoyed the meal quite a bit.  A bar nearby had a television playing the Eurocup - Italy was playing Germany in the semifinals.  Whenever Italy scored, the entire neighborhood erupted in screams of joy.  One of the chefs at a restarant down the street would literally run down the street to the bar to see the replay of the goal and celebrate.  Italy beat Germany 2 - 1, sending Italy to the finals against Spain.


home

Italy 2012
Previous
Wednesday June 27, 2012
Vernazza

Thursday June 28, 2012
Vernazza, Florence, and Rome
Next
Friday June 29, 2012
Rome - Pope Benedict, Trevi Fountain, Cappucian Crypt, Spanish Steps, Pantheon