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Austria 2019



Introduction

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Sunday July 7, 2019 and Monday July 8, 2019
El Granada to Vienna

I booked American Airlines and British Air into Vienna through Chicago and London, and booked United partner and Lufthansa subsidiary Austrian Air from Innsbruck to Vienna to LAX to SFO.  There are less than a dozen flights a day out of Innsbruck, and Austrian is the only major airline that flies out of Innsbruck.

Sunday July 7, 2019 and Monday July 8, 2019 El Granada to Vienna
Tuesday July 9, 2019 Vienna
Wednesday July 10, 2019 Vienna
Thursday July 11, 2019 train from Vienna to Innsbruck, drive to Zell am See
Friday July 12, 2019 Grossglockner-Hochalpenstrasse Edelweissspritze
Saturday July 13, 2019 drive from Heiligenblut, AT to Prutz, AT
Sunday July 14, 2019 Kaunertaler Gletscherpanoramastraße
Monday July 15, 2019 Ötztaler Gletscherstraße
Tuesday July 16, 2019 Timmelsjoch / Passo del Rombo
Wednesday July 17, 2019 Gavia
Thursday July 18, 2019 Otzi the Iceman
Friday July 19, 2019 Großer Oscheniksee
Saturday July 20, 2019 Großsee
Sunday July 21, 2019 drive from Leinz, AT to Corvara, IT - the Dolomites
Monday July 22, 2019 Sella Ronda clockwise - the Dolomites
Tuesday July 23, 2019 Sella Ronda counterclockwise - the Dolomites
Wednesday July 24, 2019 rest day in Corvara, IT - the Dolomites
Thursday July 25, 2019 drive from Corvara, IT to Innsbruck
Friday July 26, 2019 Innsbruck to El Granada

Click here to see the entire trip report day by day

Click here to see a trip summary with the best pics except the panos I used for the Highest Paved Roads in the Alps



2019/07/10 08:14

Michaelerplatz
Michaelerkirche - St Michael's Church
Hofburg Palace
the former Cafe Griensteidl
Looshaus

PANO - scroll right




2019/07/09 10:07

Franz Josef's bedroom



2019/07/09 10:12

Sisi's bedroom



Sisi's cocaine syringe



2019/07/09 10:55

bronze athlete - ancient bronzes are very rare and very cool



2019/07/09 10:55

bronze athlete



2019/07/09 11:24




2019/07/09 13:04

Pestsäule / Plague Column




2019/07/09 16:00

Schönbrunn Palace oval room, one of the East Asian Cabinets
This picture does not begin to do justice to how amazing this place is.



2019/07/10 11:34
The crown of Rudolf II (1602)



Mantle of the Austrian Emperor



2019/07/10 11:39
Chain of the Mexican Order of the Eagle
Chain of the Order of Our Lady of Guadeloupe
Sceptres
Cane of Emperor Maximilian of Mexico



2019/07/10 11:47

2680 karat emerald



2019/07/10 15:55
Raphael



2019/07/10 16:00
Caravaggio



2019/07/10 16:25
Johannes Vermeer
The Art of Painting



2019/07/10 16:30
a room full of Rembrandt



2019/07/10 16:30
a room full of Rembrandt



2019/07/10 16:31
a room full of Titian



2019/07/10 16:32
a room full of Titian



2019/07/10 17:53
Claude Monet
View of Vétheuil



2019/07/10 17:54
Pierre-Auguste Renoir
Portrait of a Young Girl



2019/07/10 17:56
Claude Monet
House among the Roses



2019/07/10 17:58
Claude Monet
The Water Lily Pond



2019/07/12 10:43

Grossglockner-Hochalpenstrasse Edelweissspritze
I made it!
I've climbed 7 of the 10 highest paved roads in the Alps!
I'm soaked and hypothermic and I'm shivering uncontrollably!
The only dry clothes I have with me are a second pair of socks.
My hands and fingers were very, very cold and barely functional.
Fingers are important since they are used to control your brakes.
Failure to brake properly downhill can result in some very bad outcomes.

My iphone battery said 50% as I saved my gps track, then it died suddenly within about a minute..
It did not like to cold..



2019/07/12 15:13

Finally I arrived in Heiligenblut, starting point for the race tomorrow.
Grossglockner is hidden in the clouds behind one of the snow covered peaks on the right.



2019/07/14 10:14
It was simply gorgeous and getting better with every turn up the mountain.
I decided to take another cycling selfie....which took quite a while...perhaps I'll get better with practice...



2019/07/14 12:16

Kaunertaler Gletscherpanoramastraße
I made it!
It is gorgeous!
There is a restaurant!
They have beer!
The weather is nice and it isn't raining or freezing cold!
I ended up seeing maybe 25 cyclists, 30-40 motorcycles, 30-40 cars, and 2 buses today.
Kinda remote here.



2019/07/14 12:25

Kaunertal 2750m !



2019/07/14 15:33

This was undoubtadly the best artifact on the ground floor.

Next we climbed up the first floor.



2019/07/14 15:57

The bottom crushed helmet is one of the oldest metal helmets in Europe.
The top helmet is a modern reconstruction.






2019/07/14 15:58

Swords and daggers broken as a sacrifice and buried



2019/07/14 15:58



2019/07/14 16:00

picture of the spot where the second hoard was found




2019/07/15 13:08

Ötztaler Gletscherstraße
I made it!
The highest paved road in the Alps!
I've climbed 9 of the 10 highest paved roads in the Alps!
My knees hurt and my fingers are numb cause glaciers are cold!
That is crazy steep!
and my helmet is crooked!

The exit to the tunnel over my head is the highest paved road in the Alps - 2830m
The ski lift above it more or less follows the path of the tunnel.
This ride was almost nearly car free..
ok, there were buses, construction vehicles, and a couple dozens cars and maybe a dozen motorcycles, but generally i was very alone and it was excellent




2019/07/16 10:16

Timmelsjoch / Passo del Rombo Finally I could see most of the way up to the pass itself.



2019/07/16 12:20

I made it!
It was gorgeous!
It was a little chilly toward the top as the cool breeze blew from the north.
The sign says 2509m, but the road only gets up to 2474m



View from my room



2019/07/17 09:54

Gavia
I made it!
I've climbed the ten highest paved roads in the Alps!

Gavia was a bit of a letdown for me, I'm still not sure why.
I suspect because it just wasn't that pretty and I had high expectations.
From the pass you look south toward the highest peaks, and they are shaded, that probably has alot to do with it.

 

2019/07/18 11:11

Otzi is on the second floor.
This is the line to see Otzi through a 18" x 24" window into his freezer.
I didn't realize it when I took this picture, but you aren't allowed to take any pictures on this floor since this is where all the cool stuff is.
I didn't try to take a picture of Otzi himself or anything else on that floor.



2019/07/18 11:44

This is a reconstruction of Otzi and his gear on the 3rd floor, they let you take pictures here.




2019/07/19 09:32

The first few turns up Oscheniksee.
Steep.
Insanely steep.
Painful.
Did I mention steep?



2019/07/19 10:19



2019/07/19 11:39

Großer Oscheniksee
I made it!
This was crazy steep and painful, certainly the hardest climb I've done...
My knees ached and my legs were completely wiped out...
There is no way I'd be able to do both this and Mölltaler on the same day.
Significantly harder than Ötztaler Gletscherstraße, the highest paved road in the Alps I did on July 15 which is known for its steepness...
All hail ibuprofen, without ibu none of this is possible...

I hadn't seen another person on this road.
I was very, very alone, and it was cool...
I made sure to bring a whistle with me today in case I got hurt.. I wanted to be found....

It was not very warm, and the clouds came in as soon as I got to the top...
Unfortunately that is one of my strongest memories of this climb, losing the sun at the top..
I considered the top pretty barren and utilitarian and not terribly scenic, at least compared to many of my other climbs

2019/07/19 11:40



2019/07/19 11:40



2019/07/19 11:41



2019/07/19 11:43



2019/07/19 11:43



2019/07/19 12:04

This picture probably best shows how steep this ride is.



2019/07/20 10:59
I stopped here for a while and took perhaps 15 pictures of the shadows of the clouds crossing the mountain above me.
The road was very, very steep, and it was so nice here I had very little motivation to keep pedaling uphill.



2019/07/20 11:35

Kegelsee and the dam for Großsee high above.



2019/07/20 13:02

Großsee dam and the single turn above it leading to the service door at 2470m

I reached the close / right side of the Großsee dam.
The road then drops quickly down below the center of the dam before it hits a punishing grade to climb up to the other side of the dam.
Crazy steep and painful.
The road up here was covered with more and more rock shards the higher I went.
It made one more long hairpin above the top of the dam.
The road was now almost covered with rock shards, it was quite a job to try to ride between the biggest shards and hope I didn't get a flat.
On the very last stretch approaching the service door the road was covered with snow for perhaps 30 meters.
I got off the bike, pushed it up in the mud next to the road, then got back on for the final short stretch to the top.



2019/07/20 12:17

I made it!
The service door above Großsee is behind that snowbank.
My last big climb of this trip.
The weather was sunny and warm.
For the first time on this trip I was able to relax in short sleeves at the top of a ride and enjoy the sun.
Did I mention this place is gorgeous?
This is my now second favorite ride after Nivolet, Kaunertal is now my third favorite ride.
I enjoyed my well earned lunch.



2019/07/20 12:18



2019/07/20 12:18



2019/07/20 12:23



2019/07/20 12:24

I finished my lunch and noticed another cyclist slowly making their way up the mountain.
Then I heard very loud motorcycles, and watched as two motorcyclists crossed the dam, one very quickly, one much more cautiously.
A fall off either side of this dam is pretty much certain death.
The third motorcycle took the road, avoiding the dam.
The motorcycles were not here legally and were disturbing my peace and quiet....



2019/07/20 12:45



2019/07/20 12:49



2019/07/23 13:14
I watched the Sassolungo "coffin lift" all during lunch, then went over for a closer look.



2019/07/23 13:40



2019/07/23 14:45



2019/07/25 13:08

the Golden Roof

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Austria 2019



Introduction

Next
Sunday July 7, 2019 and Monday July 8, 2019
El Granada to Vienna